Approaching the East Gate of Kumbum Monastery, the scent of roasted barley offerings mixes with the musk emitted by the incense and butter lamps, creating an unforgettable aroma that instantly calls to mind the cool air of a Tibetan Buddhist altar. Passing through the gate, walls of Mani prayer wheels open up to a row of eight stupas, each representing a major event in the life of Shakyamuni Buddha. Pilgrims, visitors, monks, and tour guides alike mingle throughout the courtyard, some offering incense, others snapping photographs. This vast complex of Tibetan Buddhist temple holds different meanings for the diverse people who walk within its walls.

Kumbum Monastery, or as it's called in Chinese, Ta'er Si, is not only a site of immense historical and religious significance, but also an important repository of Tibetan art and culture. As the birthplace of Je Tsongkhapa, founder of the Gelug Sect of Tibetan Buddhism, Kumbum is a popular destination for Buddhist pilgrims. (The pilgrims are not required to pay the admission fee, but they leave money on the various altars as part of worship.)

Tsongkhapa, whose name literally means "the man from Tsongkha (onion valley) area", was born in 1357, but the stupa and temple marking his birthplace were built in 1379, due to the efforts of his mother and local leaders. The temple was built around the holy sandalwood tree that, according to Tibetan legend, sprouted where a drop of blood from Tsongkhapa's umbilical cord fell to the ground. The name "Kumbum" means "100,000 holy images" in Tibetan, referring to the sacred syllables and images that were once naturally imprinted on each leaf of the tree. From this original stupa sprouted the rest of what is now a maze of temples, some built as early as the sixteenth century.

Whether one believes these legends or not, the altars within the temples are bound to arouse a sense of awe even in the most secular of visitors. Golden statues depicting Tsongkhapa, Maitreya Buddha, and various bodhisattvas such as Avalokiteshvara and Tara, typically occupy the center, flanked by animals such as snow lions, deer and elephants. Perched atop many of these statues is the garuda, a mythical bird of Buddhist and Hindu mythology. Pilgrims and monks can be seen prostrating in front of the temples, or strolling while fingering their prayer beads, muttering mantras under their breath or whirling their prayer wheels.

Also on display within the temples is an array of thangkhas, an intricate style of Tibetan painting depicting various deities with their implements, and usually framed by brocade. They also exhibit butter sculptures, or molded and dyed yak butter, depicting various forms of the Buddha, important lamas, or scenes from the Tibetan Epic of King Gesar.

Within Kumbum Monastery, there are four monastic colleges: the Debate College, the Tantric College, the Medical College, and the Kalachakra College. The Gelug Sect places a strong emphasis on debate, and the Debate College is currently the largest of the four. Monks study their respective subjects in these colleges and upon graduation, receive a geshe degree, which is the highest degree in Tibetan Buddhism.

For the less touristically-inclined visitor, there is a circumambulation path in the mountains surrounding the monastery that provides some respite from the hubbub down below. You can make your way to this path by snaking your way through the monks' quarters to the west of the main temples. There are also some temples in this area, but they are all off-limits to visitors. (They are after all esoteric traditions considered dangerous to the ignorant observer.) Even though you won't be able to see what is going on, you may hear ceremonial cymbals and drums clanking and beating from behind closed doors. Once you reach a stone path, surrounded by an iron fence shrouded in prayer flags, begin your circumambulation clockwise around the monastery.