Don't make do with the lunch.  

“Child, don’t be too impatient for treats. Once Laba Festival passes, the New Year will soon be here.” On the tenth day of the twelfth lunar month, the festive atmosphere grows stronger. Young people in the village have returned home one after another, adding to the lively spirit of the season.

What to eat for lunch? This question, which had troubled Jin Fashun for years, finally had a satisfying answer. No longer did he have to manage with a cold stove or settle for a simple bowl of plain noodle soup. Confidently, he put on his padded coat and hat, locked the door, and walked cheerfully toward the Happy Canteen a few hundred meters away. His steps were steady, yet they could not conceal a light, spirited pace.

The Dilemma of a Meal

Jin Fashun’s home is located in Dongshan Village, Xitan Township, Menyuan Hui Autonomous County, Haibei Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture. The house was built long ago, when his wife was still alive. The elderly couple lived together with their son, daughter-in-law, and grandson. Besides farming over ten acres of land, the family of five relied mainly on the income earned by their son Jin Yongchun and daughter-in-law Cai Guiping from working away from home.

But change struck like an unexpected cold wave. In 2018, his wife passed away suddenly, disrupting the family’s equilibrium. Afterwards, his son and daughter-in-law faced a difficult dilemma: to support the family, they needed to work outside the village—but who would care for the father in his sixties and the young grandson?

The couple arrived at a helpless solution: Jin Yongchun would continue working as a laborer on construction sites, while Cai Guiping would stay home to look after the family. Construction work is highly seasonal, often halting during the severe cold by October. As the sole breadwinner supporting four people, money brought home would quickly turn into daily expenses. Saving became a luxury.

Winter passed and spring arrived—another year began. Jin Yongchun, who had only been working in Xinjiang for two months, was diagnosed with an illness. After treatment, his health was not what it used to be. After careful thought, the couple decided to take out a loan and rent a small food shop on North Street in the county town. Although they had to work early and late, the shop was their own to run. That allowed some flexibility in time. Jin Yongchun managed the shop while caring for the family; Cai Guiping found work in factories in other provinces, where her income was steadier compared to odd jobs.

“Dad, I hope you can come live with us in the county town,” Jin Yongchun tried to persuade his father.

Jin Fashun looked outside and shook his head. He knew the shop his son rented was not spacious. Usually, his son and grandson had to sleep on a bed in the corner.

There was no other way—Jin Yongchun had to buy noodles and vegetables from time to time and bring them back to the village. He knew his father’s habits well: in the morning, he ate mantou (steamed buns) and drank tea; to avoid indigestion at night, he ate very little. Only lunch was meant to be the proper meal, yet his father was accustomed to eating something quick and simple.

“Dad, at noon, cook some rice and stir-fry a dish. Don’t just make do!” Before leaving, Jin Yongchun would always remind his father.

“I understand. Don’t keep coming back and forth—these things can be bought in the village too.” Watching his son hurry away, Jin Fashun felt as though this lunch was like an invisible charm, tying his hands and feet.

From Cold Stove to Warm Table

Early last year, news of the renovation and upgrade of the Happy Canteen in Dongshan Village, Xitan Township, spread through the village via WeChat groups.

In fact, as early as 2016, the village had established a “Happiness Courtyard” to care specifically for several extremely impoverished elderly residents. Later, with the active development of elderly meal assistance services across the province, Dongshan Village—supported by civil affairs departments and partner assistance units—transformed the Happiness Courtyard into a Happy Canteen. Initially, a free lunch was provided every Wednesday for the elderly in the village; later, it was increased to two days a week, on Tuesdays and Fridays. Starting in 2025, the Happy Canteen was officially upgraded through diversified funding: county-level financial subsidies, provincial star-rating rewards, village collective support, partner unit assistance, social donations, and personal contributions. Now, five days a week at noon, the canteen opens free of charge to all village residents over 65, extremely poor households, and persons with disabilities.

At first, Jin Fashun walked into the canteen with a tentative attitude. He saw people sitting around clean, round tables in the spacious dining area. Some old friends pulled him to an empty seat, where a steaming bowl of noodles and two plates of traditional dishes—appealing in color, aroma, and taste—were already set. The old companions chatted while eating, talking about everything from crop growth to their children and grandchildren’s lives. He listened quietly and, without realizing it, finished the bowl of noodles. Suddenly, he felt warmth throughout his body and a sense of relief in his heart. To Jin Fashun, this meal felt secure and heartwarming.

That evening, Jin Yongchun received a call from his father: “The canteen and the food are very good. There are many people, and it’s lively. You can focus on your business now and don’t need to come back so often.”

The Flavor of a New Life

When Jin Yongchun returned home again, he noticed his father spoke more.

“Today the canteen had inch-long noodles; I ate a big bowl.”

“There’s an open space beside the canteen. A few old friends and I are thinking of planting some potatoes there—it could also contribute to the canteen.”

In his father’s words, there were now plans and hopes for a new life. The conversations between father and son shifted from the previous “Have you eaten?” and “What did you eat?” to topics like the grandson’s education, shop management, and future plans. The family bond, once strained cautious under the pressure of making a living, was now completely freed from the burdens of care.

At 11:40, Jin Fashun’s figure appeared in the canteen right on time. Old friends Wang Zhenkui, Ye Peiming, and Chu Weiyi were already seated at the table.

“There’s barley noodle soup in the canteen today—I need two bowls.”

“There’s also fresh lamb liver.”

“Yes, the canteen slaughtered a sheep yesterday.”

“No worries, having a good meal once in a while is fine—it’s delicious.”

“Let’s play chess for a bit after eating.”

The elderly chatted enthusiastically. The door curtain lifted, and Wang Jinshou pushed the meal cart in.

“Uncles and aunts, it’s time to eat.”

Jin Fashun brought the noodles to his mouth. The warm, homely flavor spread across his tongue. This taste came not only from fresh ingredients and attentive cooking but also from the companionship of sharing a table. It was a kind of steady, grounded happiness—no longer a “makeshift” one.

Qinghai Daily | Xian Wenjing, Translator| Rencai